Ice Climbing The Falls
By: Sarah Reish
Outdoor sports recreation and activities here in Wyoming are endless and winter activities are magnificent in their icy splendor. When we saw that Montana Alpine Guide was in town offering Locals Friday, a beginner ice climbing clinic, we were in. We were somewhat out of our element, but excited to see what this was all about.
About MAG
Montana Alpine Guides is owned by Sam Magro. MAG has held a permit to guide since 1985, but it was rarely used for about ten years only later evolving into a small outfit. In 2013 Sam took over ownership of MAG from the previous owner and friend, growing it into what it is today. Pulling together friends and people from the climbing community, he now offers year round guides and adventures for those looking for an outdoor experience that goes beyond hiking or camping. His team has climbed and guided all over the world. Sam shares his and his teams experience, “I have since spent many years guiding in Alaska, The Tetons, Cody, Europe, Africa, South America, and so on. All of our guides have a high bar of experience well beyond requirements placed by the AMGA. We start with very competent and humble guides who are also highly respected by other guide operations from Alaska to the Himalayas. We are lucky to have such a solid group”. They focus their destinations in both Montana and Wyoming including backpacking guides into Yellowstone.
Locals Friday
Locals Friday is a clinic hosted by Montana Alpine Guides. When we asked Sam Magro about this affordable option for folks looking to dip their toes into ice climbing we learned they have been offering these clinics for 6 years. Starting in Montana and moving into Wyoming. Sam shared, “The idea behind our Locals Friday whether it's in Montana or Wyoming is to offer nearly free opportunities for locals to try out climbing right in their own backyard without much of a financial barrier”. MAG provides the attendees boots, harnesses, brain buckets (climbing helmets) crampons and ice picks. Attendees just need to sign up, bundle up and show up. Why Cody? “Just so happens Cody is sitting in one of the most wild and inspiring climbing areas in the US”, shares Sam.
The Journey
The Local Friday we joined was located in Shoshone National Forest. After meeting up at a pull off Matias Francis, MAG Guide and Sam Bauer from NW College in Cody helped gear everyone up and prepare for ice climbing. Matias offered a tutorial on the gear and personally spoke to everyone ensuring all in attendance understood the equipment, how to wear it and how to use it. The group then jumped into their vehicles and headed approximately a mile further to the starting point and pulled off. The hike to the falls was approximately 45 minutes. I am dividing it into three stages, the first was a foot hill climb up to the rocky area. At this second phase climbers donned their helmets to avoid injury from falling rocks. The third point is where the climb became icy and climbers were then told to put on the crampons to avoid slipping. Shortly after the climbers came to the frozen falls and the location of their climb. AJ, one of the attendees shared this portion about the guide, “The views were breath taking and the hike up to the waterfall was an adventure all by itself.”
The Climb
Upon arriving to the base of the falls the climbers were told where to stand as ice does fall when climbing. Matias lead climbed the falls to set anchors along the way including two up top so multiple people could climb. After securing the top ropes Matias repelled down and organized the group for their first climb. Matias instructed the group on how to swing the axe and place their feet and crampons securely into the ice for the most efficiency to avoid wasting energy. Then he and Sam helped the first two climbers into their gear and belayed for them as they made the first ascent up the falls. Then taking turns each attending experienced for the first time, ice climbing. Reilly, another clinic attendee summed it up well, “It is totally worth it. It's not as scary as it seems, but a guide is the perfect way to dip your toes in. It reignited my passion for climbing”.
The Experience
Ten people showed up to take their first stab at ice climbing. Reilly and AJ were two of the climbers we met and have shared their thoughts of the experience. When asked why they signed up for the Local Friday Clinic, Reilly shared, “It was never really in my budget. Locals Friday really gave me the opportunity to try something that up until that point was just not affordable for me”. When speaking with people and doing our own research, this seemed to be a common issue. The equipment alone is expensive and buying the gear prior to trying the sport is hard for most. Locals Friday eliminates the the cost factor allowing folks the experience they thought was beyond their reach. So does Local Friday work? We asked AJ if he would do it again, “Yes, I'm already planning my next trip”.
Photo By: Reilly Harrison
Photo By: Ethan Cook
Photo By: Reilly Harrison
Photo By: Reilly Harrison
Photo By: Ethan Cook
Belay On!
Keep your eyes out for more Local Fridays through MAG. You can also reach out to MAG for full day guided courses and other adventures they have on their schedule. Be sure to capture your outdoor adventures and share it on social media! Tag us @LiveWYldMag and use #LiveWYld
